Ama Dablam - 6856m

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Overview

Ama Dablam
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Ama Dablam is one of the most spectacular mountains in the Himalayas.It lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. We climb Lobuche Peak to acclimatize, before going to our main objective: Ama Dablam. We place two to three camps along the beautiful Southwest Ridge.The much-coveted SW ridge is one of the more popular routes in the Himalayas today, with climbers often using it as preparation for an expedition to one of the greater 8,000m peaks (of course the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective!). Comprising of steep ice and rock with exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines along the majority of the route. You will still have a high level of support, including strong, confident leadership, our superb Sherpa team and a well-stocked base camp.

Itinerary

Day 1 : Arrival and transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu (1360m)

A Himalayan Hikers Expedition representative will pick you up from the airport. It’s a free day to recover from your international flight. Later in the evening, there will be a group briefing and welcome group dinner.

 
Day 2 : Kathmandu City Tour

This is a day to check your gear with your guides. If needed, there’s time to buy extra gear from local suppliers in town. Once the gear check is complete, you can sight see for the rest of the day. Don’t miss some of Kathmandu’s world heritage sites (e.g. Boudhnath, Kathmandu and Patan Durbar Square). Kathmandu is a hectic city full of culture and historic sites. Meals included: B

 
Day 3 : Fly to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Monjo (2856m)

Our trip begins with an early morning 30 min flight to Lukla that flies over endless rolling hills covered with green terraces. Once in Lukla, we have a short break to organize porters and gear before starting our day’s walk, descending and ascending to Monjo. We pass green villages and colorful man walls as we follow the Dudhkosi River upstream. This region is Buddhist so remember to walk clockwise or to the right of mani walls and prayer flag poles. Monjo is a Sherpa village situated near the base of the hill up to Namche. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 4 : Trek to Namche Bazaar(3440m)

Before leaving Monjo, we’ll drop into the Khumbu National Park Information Centre where you can trace our trail from a 3D model of the region. The route crosses several steel suspension bridges covered with katas, white well-wishing Scarves, and prayer flags. From the last bridge, it’s a 2 hr hike up to Namche. On a clear day, you can catch your first view of Everest from a lookout about mid-wayup the hill. Once in Namche, you have the afternoon to rest and to do last minute gear shopping. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 5 :Rest and Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar

We spend an extra day in Namche before trekking higher to allow our bodies to adjust to the lower levels of oxgyen in the air. In the morning, we will walk up to the Everest View Hotel to enjoy a panoramic view of your objective, Ama dablam alongside Everest and Thamserku. It’s just a taste for the spectacular scenery to come! From here, you can explore the villages of Khunde and Khumjung where Sir Edmund Hillary opened a hospital and school, respectively. Or the afternoon is free for wandering around Namche, emailing friends and families or relaxing over coffee and cakes in the bakery. Meals included: B, L, D

 

Day 6 - 12 : Trek Namche(3440m), climb lobuche east and back to Dingboche

The trail behind Namche is a gentle track that traverses high above the Imja River with overlooking views of Thamserku and Ama dablam. We will pause at Kyangjuma for a morning tea break and to admire stunning views of Ama dablam. From here it’s a descent to the valley floor to cross the Imja river and then uphill to Tengboche. The Tengboche monastery is the largest monastery in the Khumbu, which allows public viewings of its prayer sessions. It’s a short 30 min descent from Tengboche to Deboche, our home for the night. Than continue climb up to EBC, back to Labuche Bc and Summit Push for as training Labuche east before heading Amadablam BC. Relaxing at Dingboche. Meals included: B, L, D

 

Day 13 : Trek Dingboche(4310m) to Amadablam Base Camp (4600m)

In the morning we head to Pangboche, take a short break, cross the Imja river andthen walk up the ridge opposite the village. It’s a gentle ascent to this meadow base camp that sits at the foot of the mountain. With close up views of this Himalayan mastiff, it’s one of the best camp sites in the Khumbu. Base camp consists of a dining tent, kitchen tent, shower tent and individual comfortable stand up tents for clients. You’ll get a good sleep on your 8 inch sleeping mattress, critical for good rests after acclimatization rounds on the mountain before the summit push. We begin the day by first checking gear before heading out for a practice session. On a set up of fixed lines, we’ll practice climbing up and traversing on fixed lines and abseiling over knots. You should be confident using your gear whilst fully kitted up (gloves, climbing clothes). Please feel free to ask your guides if you have questions about safety and explanations about the route. Meals included: B, L, D

 

 
 
Day 14: Pooza, Rest and training at Amadablam Base Camp.

Today our day will start by conducting a special puja (Buddhist ceremony) with the local lama to request the Mountain spirits for safe passage. This can be highlight for many climbers.

After lunch afternoon begins with checking gear before heading out for a practice session. On a set up of fixed lines, we’ll practice climbing up and traversing on fixed lines and abseiling over knots. You should be confident using your gear whilst fully kitted up (gloves, climbing clothes). Please feel free to ask your guides if you have questions about safety and explanations about the route. Meals included: B, L, D

 

Day 15 : Day trip from Base camp to 5800m

The first round of acclimatization trips on the mountain starts with a hike up to 5800m, at the foot of the SW ridge route. We walk eastwards on a ridge around the south end of the Mingbo glacier that stretches off Amadablam. From the saddle, we can see Mingbo La pass further East that gives passage to the Hunku valley. We’ll hike up through a boulder field, cross a slab area and up a gully to the ridge. The SW route can be clearly seen from this advantage point to give you a better idea of the challenges and fun ahead! We return via the same route to good food and rest. Meals included: B, L, D

 

Day 16 : Rest and gear preparation

Over the next 2 days we’ll be climbing up to Camp 2 and sleeping at Camp 1, so this is the day to pack and prepare. You’ll be carrying your sleeping bag, mat and personal items. Some climbers choose to bring 2 sets of sleeping bags so that 1is left at base camp and 1 at a higher camp. This spares you from carrying your sleeping bag constantly up and down the mountain. Climbing Sherpas will head up today to set up the camps carrying tents, food and fuel. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 17 : Climb Base camp(4600m) to Camp 1 (5900m)

We follow the ridge route up through the boulder field, over the slab, up the gully and then scramble further to the tent platform, or Camp 1. You’ll be welcomed with a hot drink and will be able to rest in your tent before dinner. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 18 : Climb Camp 1 (5900m) to Camp 2 (6100m), return to base camp (4600m)

This is the first serious day of climbing. It begins with a hike up to 2 fingers like rock projections, and a climb up to the ridge proper. It’s a narrow ridge that leads to an exposed traverse on tension fixed lines. We jumar up to the ridge again and follow this to another face traverse, that takes us to the Yellow Tower. It’s a 15m pitch around AUS 16/US 5.8/5b standard to our camp. Camp 2 is an infamous site known for its precarious location with 360o degrees of surrounding exposure. Once we’ve touched this site we drop back down to base camp. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 19 : Rest, contingency day and final Summit

With our full rotation now complete and familiarity of the route and its challenges established, we rest and wait for our summit push. This is time to rest and eat! We plan an extra contingency day for weather. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 20 : Climb base camp (4600m) to Camp 1 (5900m)
Meals included: B, L, D
 
Day 21 : Climb Camp 1 (5900m) to Camp 2 (6100m)
Meals included: B, L, D
 
Day 22 : Climb Camp 2 (6100m) to Camp 3 (6400m)

We continue on up now to Camp 2. Get a good rest and sleep. The next 2 days will be challenging and rewarding! The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is considered to be the most difficult of the entire route. We begin by dropping briefly, traverse eastwards and then ascend to the base of the Grey Tower. We climb up alongside the Grey Tower using a steep rock gully that’s approximately an 80m ascent over 3 pitches. Watch for rock fall here especially if there are other parties over head. We cross an exposed traverse that brings us to the West side of a large snow ridge (Mushroom ridge). From here it’s a climb up on this steep and narrow ridge to Camp 3. The final summit push! We follow the now familiar route up to Camp 1. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 23 : Climb Camp3(6400m to Summit (6856m),return to Camp 2 (6100m) 

Our summit push! We climb up the steep snow/ice slope behind Camp 3 and move towards the right side of the facto a small snow field. We cross a Berg Rock face and climb up to an ice crest. This follows the summit ridge route to the large glorious snowfield summit top! The central position of Ama dablam affords stunning views of Khumbu peaks and beyond from its summit. From the summit, you see the summit of Island Peak just below you, and unobstructed views of Everest and Lhotse. Further a field in other valleys, Cho Oyu and Malakhu can also be seen. After a period of celebration on the summit, we climb and abseil down to Camp 3. Pack up camp and head to Camp 2 for the night. A well deserved rest waits. Meals included: B, L, D

 
Day 24 : Climb Camp 2 (6100m) to base camp (4600m)
Meals included: B, L, D
 
Day 25 : Rest and pack up base camp

It’s been an exhausting last few days so we take an extra day to rest and slowly begin to pack up base camp. Enjoy your last day soaking in the views from this tranquil camp site. Meals included: B, L, D

 

Day 26 : Trek base camp (4600m) to Namche (3440m)
Meals included: B, L, D
 
Day 27 : Trek Namche (3440m) to Lukla (2840m)
Meals included: B, L, D
 
Day 28 : Fly Lukla to Kathmandu(1360m)

This is our last day on the trail. The route from Namche a drop back down to the valley floor and follows the river towards Lukla. Take in the beautifully decorated man walls and prayer wheels lining the trail to Lukla. After living in Sherpa land for the last few weeks, we arrive back in the melting pot of cultures that is Kathmandu. Spend this day, doing last minute sighting and shopping. We hike down the ridge to Pangboche, and then follow the main traffic of hikers back to Namche. Back in town, you can send emails to family and friends about your summit news, and enjoy good coffee and bakery treats. After a quick breakfast, we pack up Camp 2 and return to base camp. Showers and good food are waiting to welcome you “home” from your summit success. Meals included: B

 
Day 29 : Kathmandu

Today is your last day in Nepal so prepare for departure, packing and returning gear. A massage is highly recommended to relax your tired muscles before your long haul flight home.
Meals included: B

 
Day 30 : International departure

Includes / Excludes

 

Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfers
  • 4 nights in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
  • Standard guest house/lodges in mountain
  • All accommodation and meals during the entire trip
  • A half day sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley including tour guide and monumental fees
  • Domestic flights and airport departure taxes
  • An experienced English-speaking trek leader (trekking guide) assistant guide also known as Sherpa, porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter)
  • Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag, Himalayan Hikers Trekking duffel bag, t-shirt, and trekking map (down jacket and sleeping bag, cottonliner are to be returned after trip completion)
  • A comprehensive medical kit, with medical oxygen on high altitude trips and PAC BAG (Portable Altitude Chamber)
  • All necessary paper work and permits (National park permit, Climbing permit for Lobuche and Amadablam and insurance of the staff)

 

Excludes

  • Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Extra night accommodation/s in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure or early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case you return early from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower etc)
  • Tips for guides and porters

 

Gear List

 

 

Amadablam Gear List

 

 

Head:

  •  Baseball cap • Balaclava (comfortable tight- fitting, which covers as much skin as possible) • Warm polar fleece or wool hat (beanie) • Glacier glasses (category 4 lens, must wrap around your face well) • Ski goggles (snug fit with good ventilation and anti-fog) • Headlamp X 2 (bright LED with powerful beam) and plenty of extra batteries • Climbing helmet (adjustable, climbing-specific)

 

Hands:

  • Gloves (snug fitting wind stopper, and a few pairs of thin liners) • Big Mountain gloves (Gore Tex with removable liner, warmest available) • Big Mountain mittens (warm and should fit over your wind stopper gloves. Must be able to operate a Jumar wearing them)

 

Feet:

  •  Liner socks (4 pairs) • Hiking socks (4 pairs) • Warm mountain socks (4 pairs) • Down booties • Base camp shoes (comfortable, waterproof and warm) • Hiking shoes (good low to mid- cut, Gore-Tex lined) • Mid-weight mountaineering boots suitable for 7000m summits (e.g. plastic double boots)

 

 

Upper Body:

  • Base layers (breathable and moisture wicking, few different weights, e.g. silk weight, mid- weight and expedition weight) • Warm jacket (fleece or polarguard) • Softshell jacket (with wind stopping properties) • Gore-Tex jacket (breathable waterproof with good hood that fits over a climbing helmet) • Synthetic fill Jacket (e.g. primaloft) • Down jacket (800 fill, lightweight with hood)

 

Legs:

  • Base layer (breathable and moisture wicking, mid-weight and expedition weight) • Soft shell pants (comfortable for everyday wear) • Gore-Tex pants (heavy duty with reinforced crampon patches and waterproof zippers) • Insulated pants (down or primaloft) • Shorts (quick dry)

 

PLUS: normal city clothes, trekking clothes, scarf (bandana, buffs) and underwear (avoid cotton).

• Small day pack for trekking and city use (comfortable, 15-20L) • Backpack (50-70L, fitted for your back length and internal frame)

• Duffle bags to transport your gear to Nepal • Sleeping pads (full length, insulated inflatable and closed cell foam pads with repair kit)

• Sleeping bag X 2, -20oC to -10oC rated (800+ goose down fill, correct length for your height, one for base camp and one for higher camp)

• Harness (light weight alpine with belay loop and gear loop) • Carabineers (4 screw gate and 4 snap gate)

• Belay device (easy to use and lightweight) • Prussik cord (about 8 meters of 6mm and 5 meters of 4mm) • Ice Axe (for alpine use and right length for your height) • Crampons (semi auto with heel bail, good anti-balling system and steel) • Jumar (large handle to fit your glove hand) • Trekking Poles (lightweight with good snow basket)

 

PLUS: small personal first aid kit, water bottles, pee bottles, pocket knife, cigarette lighter, pad locks for the duffle, Ziplock bags, garbage bags to use as waterproof liner, different size stuff sacks, sunscreens (heavy duty), lip balms, toiletries, snacks to last one month and entertainment items (e.g. music, books, camera and phone with solar power charging system).

Travel documents: passport, visa (30 days), passport photos, copy of your travel insurance and photocopies of passport.

Departure Dates

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Duration 30 Days

Grade Hard++

Max-Altitude 6856 Mt.

Accommodation

Country Nepal

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